should you be using a retinoid?

Let's break it down.

Should you be using a Retinoid? Let’s Break It Down.

In theory, everyone could benefit from a retinoid — it’s truly the gold standard in anti-aging (second only to the OG: sunscreen). But here’s the thing, not everyone can tolerate them. And as you’ve heard me say before — healthy skin is glowing skin.

Dry, flaking, red, irritated skin? Not exactly glowing.

So… should you use a retinoid? What is a retinoid? How do you use one without wrecking your skin? Let’s dive in.

First Things First: What Is a Retinoid?

Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives. The two you’ve probably heard of are:

• Retinol (available over the counter)

• Retin-A (a prescription-strength version, also called tretinoin)

Retinol: Gentle, Effective, and Better Tolerated

Retinol is more cosmetically focused and generally easier on the skin. When applied, it has to go through a two-step conversion process before your skin can actually use it — which makes it less intense and more tolerable.

Because it doesn’t penetrate as deeply, retinol is ideal for addressing fine lines and wrinkles without the harsh side effects. If you’re sensitive, dry, or rosacea-prone, I typically recommend starting with a retinol.

Think of it like lifting weights — you don’t start with 100 lbs. You build strength (and tolerance) over time.

New to a retinol? Start here:
Differin Gel (Adapalene 0.1%) – OTC affordable starter retinoid
Revision Skincare® D·E·J Night Face Cream – Low strength retinoid in a hydrating, antioxidant-rich formula
Avène Retrinal 0.1 Cream – Formulated with Retinaldehyde for a youthful, radiant look, without the irritation.

Building Strength: When Your Skin Is Ready to Level Up

If your skin is tolerating lower-strength retinoids with no dryness or irritation, you can consider increasing to stronger concentrations.

Level up options:
Revision Skincare® Retinol Complete 0.5 – Perfect for intermediate users
Revision Skincare® Retinol Complete 1.0 – For experienced users with retinoid tolerance

Retin-A: Prescription-Only and 100x Stronger

Retin-A (aka tretinoin or retinoic acid) skips the conversion steps and penetrates directly into the skin. This makes it much more potent — and yes, much more likely to cause irritation.

It’s often recommended for acne-prone patients, but many people simply can’t tolerate it due to side effects like dryness, peeling, and redness.

Talk to your provider about a prescription for Tretinoin if you’ve already built tolerance with over-the-counter options.

What About Strength?

Retinoids come in different strengths. Here's a quick breakdown:

Prescription Retin-A:

• 0.1%, 0.05%, and 0.025%

Over-the-Counter Retinol:

• 1%, 0.5%, and 0.25%

• If the product doesn’t list the percentage, it’s likely below 0.25% — which won’t give you the full benefit.

Pro tip: The lower the percentage, the easier it is to tolerate. So if you’re just starting out, go low and slow. Once your skin is adjusted and irritation-free, you can consider increasing your strength.

How to Use a Retinoid (Without Hating Your Skin)

1. Start slow.
   Use 2–3 nights per week for the first two weeks. If there’s no irritation, increase to every other night. Eventually, you can work up to nightly use — but consistency is more important than frequency.

2. Less is more.
   Use a pea-sized amount for your entire face. Avoid creases around the eyes, nose, and mouth — those areas are thinner and more prone to irritation.

3. Apply to dry skin.
   Wash your face, pat dry, and wait 20 minutes before applying your retinoid. Applying to damp skin can increase absorption and irritation.

   Bonus tip: If certain areas are extra sensitive (like around the eyes), apply Vaseline to those spots before your retinoid to buffer the product.

4. Always wear sunscreen.
   Retinoids make your skin more sun-sensitive. Use SPF 30+ daily, and stop using your retinoid if you get sunburned until your skin fully recovers.

5. Pause before treatments.
   Avoid waxing or laser treatments while using a retinoid. Your skin is more fragile and prone to damage. Ideally, stop use 1–2 weeks before any treatment and let your provider know you’re using a retinoid.

Still Struggling?

If you’re dealing with ongoing dryness or irritation, you may not be using the right retinoid for your skin type. If you’re still unsure, a quick consult with your dermatology provider (👋 hi!) can help you figure it out.

Shop all my favorite retinoids here or reach out for personalized recommendations!